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TXC 007: Week 1 Notes

by: Demi Chang

TXC 007: Week 1 Notes TXC 007

Demi Chang
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Hi Everyone! These are the notes from Week One of lecture (with a focus on Lecture Two, since Lecture One was only a class introduction). It covers material mentioned in class as well as ...
Fashion and Cultural Studies
Linda Matheson
Class Notes
Textiles, TXC 007, Fashion and Cultural Studies, Linda Matheson, Susan B. Kaiser, UC Davis, Winter Quarter 2016




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This 4 page Class Notes was uploaded by Demi Chang on Wednesday January 13, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXC 007 at University of California - Davis taught by Linda Matheson in Winter 2016. Since its upload, it has received 47 views. For similar materials see Fashion and Cultural Studies in Textiles And Apparel at University of California - Davis.

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Date Created: 01/13/16
TXC 007: Fashion and Cultural Studies- Week 1 Notes Linda F. Matheson A. Fashion + Culture​ Together,Fashion​andCultural Studiesinforms us of our society and how/why we create meanings on our bodies everyday. This intersection of fashion and culture highlights the multi-/interdisciplinary nature of its topics. 1. Cultural Studie: Asks“what’s going on?It is a framework interested in- ● The production ofmeaning​- how/why certain ideas, people, and objects come to symbolize certain values/meanings. ● Culture​ : Distinctive ideas, customs, products, social behavior, or way of life of a particular time, people, or society. It is often broader than fashion; culture is a “custom over time” while fashion is “custom over time”. ● The circulation oPower ​refer to section below). 2. Fashion Studies: Asks“how does change happen- and what does this tell us?” ● Just as “culture” implicates tending and managing, fashion does as well. B. Style-Fashion-Dress: ​ This complex system of concepts can be recognized for its parts (the individual terms and its whole (the system that connects them). 1. Style: Usinagency​​the ability to do things our way, having control and resist power relations) for the construction of self by assembling garments, accessories, and beauty regimens that may/may not be in fashion. Also defined as a personal fashion statement. Distinctive style categories include: ● Subculturalstyle (detached from mainstream fashion), style for the purpose of rebelling/resisfashion ● Runway/Designer​style anCelebristyle 2. Fashion​: Style narratives that are collectively change through time. ● ​ Style narrativeis this idea where fashioning the body is a method for individuals to represent their momentary sense of who they are becoming. 3. Dress:A more neutral term that defines everything that modifies/supplements the body (including things like what car you have, plastic surgery, and dental implants). 4. Articulation: This concept and method of cultural studies plays into the formation of Style-Fashion-Dress. It can be defined as: ● To ​ joinand toexpress.i.e., someone wearing both formal and casual wear. ● Transcends binaries;goes beyond the either/orthinking and towards both/and. ● Goes beyond ​ essentialist thinkin(where everything is predetermined) and emphasizes critical, creative understandings. ● Mobius Strip​ : A metaphor of a strip or ribbon that explains how something can be two-sided but still have one continuous surface. This is similar to how individuals cannot separatwhenwe are fromwherewe are in this convergence of fashioning themselves in time and space- emphasizing the both/and frame of mind. C. Circuit of Style-Fashion-Dress Model: 1. Production​: Derived from the Latin root wfacer, production refers to the process of making “good” for the purpose of profit. Prominent cultural production of textiles include: ● The “​ string revolut, where women spun fibers from flax/hemp into yarns to create string skirts for themselves. ● Sericultur, the Chinese art and technology of silk production ● The transition from constructing full garments to industrializing cloth production in the 18th-19th century leading to assembly line construction in global sweatshops, labor abuse issues, and manufacturers seeking the lowest labor costs. ● The ​Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire of was one of the largest tragedies that occurred because of substandard levels of fire prevention that lead to labor reforms. 2. Consumption​ : The “using up” of goods- or the opposite of productivity. Some key points regarding consumption include: ● While this process includes buying, it also refers to the maintenance and disposal of the things we consume. ● With industrialization and the creation of “fast fashion”, people are buying more clothing than they really need at a ridiculously lower price. ● Consumers often overconsume due to this “magical system” created by advertising that turns consumption into a process that fulfills human desires like pleasure and power. 3. Production-Consumption Disconnect​: With the global industrialization of cloth production, manufacturers seeking the lowest labor costs have created this disconnect between production and consumption. There was a huge gap between: ● Consumers wearing branded/marketed “fast fashion” (a constant production of new collections rather than following the traditional seasons) , and… ● ...Workers around the world who would not be able to afford the garment they made. 4.Distribution + RepresentationLocated between production and consumption, distributionrefers to both the marketing and physical movement of goods. An important form of distributionrepresentation,aprocess that creates and establishes our understandings of the world, defining concepts and what they stand for. ● We often see how cultural media distributes images, stories, etc. through advertising- i.e., adding symbolic value to clothing- sexuality, success, happiness- to turn ordinary clothing into desirable objects. ● In 1939, the “makeover” for women promised a self-transformarevealedan ideal female image, concealedthe “behind the scenes” of production in regards to labor and environmental impacts. This shows how representareveal and conceal. ● The ​Double Role of Distribution and Representationcludes: I. Site of disconnect between production and consumption and II. Concealment of production and business methods. 5. Subject FormationAn ongoing process of being and becoming. It involves complex intersections of multiple different identities- such as sexuality, gender, race, etc. ● Subject Formation combinessubject position(which are embedded icultural discourse) andsubjectivity(which involveagency)- both subjects discussed below. 6. Regulation: Bringing production, distribution, and consumption of clothing under control. This embodies labor rights, world trade agreements, environmental and consumer policies, and labeling content. D. Subject, Subjection, and Subjectivity: 1. Subject:Someone who is subjugated to the dominating force of someone higher in the hierarchy. 2. Subjection: Being subjected to something beyond his/her own control, where the power is imposed in some way. ● The circumstances are beyond our control (such as our place of birth, our given body traits, etc). ● A network of power that surrounds us is createcultural discourse, or the ongoing “conversations” that impose and shape our understansubjectf ​ positions(i.e, family background, sexuality, gender, nation, race, ethnicity, etc.). 2. Subjectivit: A way of being and becoming in the world that accounts for the relationship between our intersectional social locations (gender, class, nationality, etc.) and the networks of power that we live in. Subjectivity implies thagency to articulate one’s own way of being/becoming. E. Power: ​ While the traditional sense of power can be traced back to feudalism (a hierarchy of king, noble, knight, and peasant that relied on the exchange of money/food/service for land), power can be more currently categorizindividual power ​and anetwork of power. 1. Individual Power​:This refers to the power given to individuals that can have a major influence over a group of subjects. 2. Network of Power​ :This model of power works through institutions (like the state, schools, and families) and discourses (“conversations”). Networks show that power has the ability to be productive as a group, rather than repressive.


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