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TXC 007: Week 2 Notes

by: Demi Chang

TXC 007: Week 2 Notes TXC 007

Demi Chang

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Hi Everyone~ Here's the lecture notes from Week 2! Please let me know if you guys have any questions :)
Fashion and Cultural Studies
Linda Matheson
Class Notes
UC Davis Winter Quarter 2016 Matheson Linda TXC 007 Fashion and Culture Studies Susan Kaiser Textiles
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This 3 page Class Notes was uploaded by Demi Chang on Wednesday January 20, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXC 007 at University of California - Davis taught by Linda Matheson in Winter 2016. Since its upload, it has received 12 views. For similar materials see Fashion and Cultural Studies in Textiles And Apparel at University of California - Davis.

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Date Created: 01/20/16
TXC 007: Fashion and Cultural Studies- Week 2 Notes Linda F. Matheson A. ​Assumption 1​ :Inevitably, people appe. People are part of the visual world, and hence part of fashidiscours: a continual give and take as individuals negotiate their social identities through processes subjectivit(being self-conscious of their self-styling) and intersubjectivit(interactions with the subjectivities of others). ● Mindingappearances​:Can be conscious or subconscious. bringing together situated bodily practices with streams of consciousness that are themselves embodied. Feminists philosophy says the mind in the body, so mind and body cannot be separated. Often politicians have to be mindful of their appearance to create a specific impression. ● Intersectionality: The intersection of subject positions like gender, nation, sexuality, class, age, place, and “race”/ethnicity. For example, Hillary Clinton presents an intersection of several subject positions- she is female, American, straight, white, and upper class. ● Habitus​ : A ritual experience or personal conditioning that occurs in everyday life- embodied routines that are uncatalogued and habitual. Situated bodily practices that are culturally ingrained but that also have their own personal spin. For example, with Donald Trump, he routinely has his hair slicked back to create his distinctive hair style. B. ​​ssumption Two:​ Fashion is transnationa(not merely Western, European, or Euro-Modern- meaning modernity is only inclusive of the “white” regions like North America, Australia, and New Zealand). Fashion is a series of change that should demonstrate the creativity and flexibility of people. Yet when we encounter cultures that don’t dress the way we do, or perhaps whose past does not include written histories/paintings/drawings, we often categorize them as static (not “evolved”). ● Transnationality​: Across and beyond nationality; crossing boundaries. This could include people and businesses moving over different nations, or people traveling who can have a transnational perspective, and the worldwide social media community). ● Globalization​: New corporate strategies, the restructuring and spread of capitalism worldwide since 1980’s. The increase in globalization caused in an increase in fast fashion and labor issues. C. ​ Hegemony​ : The ability of dominant class/cultures to exercise power and influence, not by coercion/force but by persuasion/creativity (strategic arguments, language, visually embodied imagery-logos, labels). It is how people in power dominate/persevere, even when these ways are not in the best interests of those who “buy” them. ● It includes a set of practice: that​ 1. make dominant interests “natural”. 2. make social order feel “legitimate”. 3. Uses persuasion over coercion (i.e., advertising images and political campaigns). * It works because those who are dominated have to see some benefit (even if there may be ambivalence). ● Hegemonic (western) story of fashion: 1. The “birth” of fashion can be traced back to the Italian Renaissance in french courts of the14th and 15th centuries, where young men wore characteristically tight pants. 2. Hegemonic concepts imposed on citizenship/fashion causes cultural anxiety. For example, if you’re “French”, the dress code is extremely strict- religious accessories were banned and it became illegal to cover face in public places. This conflicted with the Muslim community and their wear of headscarves. ● Alternatives to the term “hegemonic western fashion”: 1. world fashion​ ” to break out the binary opposition of “west vs. the rest”. 2. transnationality​” to refer to the condition of cultural interconnectedness and mobility across space- something intensified under late capitalism. ● Hegemony examples in beauty norms that privilege white western appearances: 1. Dominance of european derived male business suit (enduring kind of world fashion) . Men’s fashion can embody hegemonic masculinity, where menswear is “unmarked”, meaning it does not stand out compared to the female dress. 2. Production, Distribution, and Consumption of “good hair” (straight/smooth considered more beautiful). This has created agency with african american culture to keep natural hair. 3. Who gets to represent “national dress” when there are multiple ethnicities involved. 4. How women’s bodies are chosen to represent “high fashion” and “national dress”. As seen with the Miss Universe Pageant, women are used to advertise swimwear, their nation, and implicate ideas on race, gender, and sexuality. “High fashion” is a hegemonic articulation of other subject positions as well- it represents a Western idea of white, wealthy women. ● ​ Scattered Hegemonies​: A concept explaining that hegemony is not only about social class, but other subject positions too (etc.). This relates to how subject formation is an intersectional/transnational process (influenced by globalization). Power is multilayered, complex, and nuanced. C. Assumption Three:​ ​ubject formation through style-fashion-dress is a process of navigating intersectionalitie. The subject positions are not isolated; they intersect/entangle one another. They defy singulessentialisways of being and goes against this exclusive focus on one subject position at the expense of others. For example, focusing on male/female, without considering transgender, bisexual, and others. ● Subject formation is two-part: 1. The intersecsubject positions (thesestructur; for example, you are born into a class/race/gender or you cannot control your age), and 2. subjectivitagencyis employed to navigate through subject positions). ● Ambiguity​ : The open-ended possibility and articulation that lie between the spaces of subject positions. This is similar to how gay activist Harry Hay emphasized the Native American concept of masculine and feminine spirits and blending them together. He often wore both female and male clothing to create an ambiguity in the subject position of gender.  


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