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Ceramic Notes Week 2

by: Emily Pulley

Ceramic Notes Week 2 205

Marketplace > Truman State University > Art > 205 > Ceramic Notes Week 2
Emily Pulley
Truman State
GPA 3.32

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About this Document

These notes cover slips, how to make coil pots and some other tips and tricks
Ceramics I
W Wilbur
Class Notes
25 ?




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This 3 page Class Notes was uploaded by Emily Pulley on Friday January 22, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to 205 at Truman State University taught by W Wilbur in Spring 2016. Since its upload, it has received 7 views. For similar materials see Ceramics I in Art at Truman State University.

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Date Created: 01/22/16
Week 2: In Class    ● Tips/Tricks  ○ When clay is in leatherhard stage (with a mug)  ■ Give it a little concaveness on bottom (dent) to make it more stable  ○ What to do if your clay dries out  ■ Wet pieces with water and stick back in back, then let sit for a day and you  have reclaimed clay!  ○ How to intentionally dry out clay  ■ Flatten on cloth (cloth will absorb some of water)  ■ Make long and thin  ■ Expose to air  ○ The drying of handles  ■ This will usually shrink before cup (because smaller and is expose to more  air/elements)  ■ Want it to dry slowly (wrap in plastic)    ● How to Make a Coil Pot  ○ Draw profile of pot   ■ pay attention to where widest point is  ■ cut out stencil using stiff paper to use as a reference/guide  ○ Work on either a rotating disk or paper towel so can rotate  ○ Start with round slab  ■ make ball and flatten it with hand = ½” thick  ○ For Coils:  ■ roll out clay beyond 360  ● keeps it from going flat  ● can flip over to help even  ■ should be diameter of little finger  ● error on the side of thicker coil  ○ Attach first coil with scoring  ○ Put water on and score again  ○ Don’t have to score rest of coils after this because it’s wet clay  ■ Only time this is different is if it has been dried in some way or you are  starting new. In that case you should score that first one and then continue.  ○ Hold up to template and make sure a little room is left in between   ■ this is for where coil will be spread when smoothed  ○ Take coil and smear it down in bottom with finger  ○ Have one hand support and other pinch and smear inside  ○ Repeat on outside  ○ It is important to keep pattern/template level through all of this  ○ Stop every 4­5 coils to make sure it isn’t getting too wide  ■ error on the side of a skinnier pot  ■ when it gets too wide you can’t make it skinny easily again  ○ Smooth after smear together  ■ Don’t do too much smoothing until it’s taller and more firm  ○ Use hair dryer/heat gun to blow every so often to keep it a little more firm  ■ need to score each coil if do this because it’s harder for it to stick if dry  ○ NEVER LET IT GET BONE DRY  ○ Don’t want the bottom to be sharp  ■ because when set something down you tend to hit an edge and then   it settles  ● want to avoid chipping    ● Factoids  ○ Chinese = first to develop porcelain  ○ Lug = little handle/loops often found on older jars. Would be used to tie lids down  to keep them secure on jar structure    ● Notes on Surface  ○ Slip (really fluid clay)   ■ goes on leather hard or wet clay  ■ don’t use on bone dry  ● this will cause uneven drying and cracking  ■ want fluid but not too runny  ■ ways to work with  ● brush on/paint a pattern  ○ if see clay through slip, its not thick enough  ● scraffito  ○ drawing back through clay already brushed on  ■ show clay back through slip  ■ this razes little burs (brush off later)  ● mishima/in­laid slip  ○ carefully dig into clay  ○ fill lines that etched with black slip  ○ when that is dry enough, take dry edge of scraper and take  off slip and it leaves line you drew  ● slip trailing  ○ fill syringe with slip  ○ draw line out of slip  ○ will have color AND texture     


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