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TXMI 3530 Wee Three Notes

by: Ashley Pacilio

TXMI 3530 Wee Three Notes TXMI 3530

Marketplace > University of Georgia > Retail > TXMI 3530 > TXMI 3530 Wee Three Notes
Ashley Pacilio
GPA 3.69

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About this Document

These notes cover what we talked about in week three of Apparel Quality Analysis.
Apparel Quality Analysis
Laura McAndrews
Class Notes
Fashion, apparel, manufacturing, Textiles, quality, analysis, sewn products
25 ?




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This 3 page Class Notes was uploaded by Ashley Pacilio on Friday January 29, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXMI 3530 at University of Georgia taught by Laura McAndrews in Summer 2015. Since its upload, it has received 39 views. For similar materials see Apparel Quality Analysis in Retail at University of Georgia.


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Date Created: 01/29/16
Apparel Quality Analysis Week Three: Day One – January 25, 2016 • Chapter Four – Garment Construction Details • [Insert diagrams into notes] • Types of closures: buttons, snaps – buttons higher quality, zipper • French cuff/Lapped cuff – French higher quality • Necklines – V-neck, Henley, crew, scoop, polo, • Collars – peter pan, • Yoke – can have several different locations • Dart – princess style – helps nip the curves of the woman’s body o Men’s clothes don’t usually have darts • Side seam – where the shirt is stitched together • Fit: relationship between the body, garment size, and style o Bad fit: jeans, corduroy pants, etc. o Good fit: t-shirts • Ease: o Functional ease/wearing ease § Allows for movement o Design ease/style ease § Functional ease plus additional fullness to achieve style and silhouette • {Ask Molly for picture of diagram} • Straight grain: most stability, crisp appearance o Huge quality check – very important o Parallel to the selvage of the fabric o 75%-80% of clothes should be cut straight grain o Knits and sweaters (except for circle skirts – bias) • Cross grain: used to create boarder hem prints o Stiffer, least drape • Bias grain: body skimming, provide stretch and movement o Cut at 45 degrees [most of the time] o Has a lot of flow and drape o Used in gowns o Good fabrics: satin weave (not twill) silk, light-weight plain weave (organza), muslin • On-grain: everything is lined up and straight • Off-grain: starts to pucker, warp, twist, etc. • Darts: triangular fold of excess fabric shaped to a body contour o Decorative darts o Dart variations o Usually cut off somewhere • Seams: formed by two or more plies of fabric o Usually run the whole length of the garment o Straight seams o Shapes seams o Examples: 4-gore A-line, 6-gore with gathers, 10-gore Trumpet Flare • Dart Equivalents/Shaped Seams o Integrates a dart into a shaped seam o Example: the dart in the princess seam on a shirt • Gathers: even distribution of fullness o Less structured appearance o Shirring o Ruching o Least expensive way to put in ease o Basting stitches, shove in a yarn, and “gather” it • Tucking o Most expensive way to put in ease o Similar to pleats in form and function o Stitched completely down or to a designated length o More exacting and highest quality • Pleats: fabrics folded back on itself along the grainline to fit body contours and add interest o Very exact – hand stitched o Flat o Dimensional o Measurements are very precise – box pleats o Accordion pleats o Knife pleats • Full fashioned: 2D pre-shaped garment pieces that are ready to assemble • Knit-and-wear: 3D garments knitted to fit shape of body with minimal finishing required [better explanation than book] • Linking: how you put sweaters together • Openings: allow access for the body when dressing o Plackets § Gauntlet button: the button on the French cuff shirt for women – men would use cuff links o Zipper applications o Waistbands o Metal hook and eye are cheap to make • Facings: finish edge openings of garments o Control bias cuts o Cheaper way to finish (compared to lining something) o Lowest quality: armhole facing, neckline facing o Highest: front facing, all-in-one facing o On the inside of garment Week Three: Day Two – January 27, 2016 • Hem finishes: finish bottom edge of garment and sleeves o Stabilize o Provide a clean finish o Functional o Decorative o Zig zag hem – one of the cheapest way to finish a garment o Should “turn back” edge twice – how you finish knits o Single needle chain stitch – one thread, one needle o French seam – no chains or stitches; clean (in the “best” category) o Can add another raw material to finish something – ex. Ribbon o Binding – very clean; bind, then sew o Blind hem stitch – see the stitch on the inside, but you hardly see it on the outside at all; very nice quality – haute couture • Dye process o Fiber: Heather (natural or Chief Value Cotton – CVC) § Solution (synthetic) o Yarn: (Y/D) § Space dye o Fabric: § Piece dye – 100% of one material o Garment • Got into our groups and worked on worksheet one for the Garment Comparison project Week Three: Day Three – January 29, 2016 • Worked on worksheets one and three for the Garment Comparison project • Turn in worksheet one st • Homework due Sunday, January 31 , by midnight: Scavenger Hunt – find examples of clothes o Difference between “good” and “best” category o Assignment on eLC


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