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TXMI 4250 Week Three Notes

by: Ashley Pacilio

TXMI 4250 Week Three Notes 4250

Marketplace > University of Georgia > Retail > 4250 > TXMI 4250 Week Three Notes
Ashley Pacilio
GPA 3.69

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About this Document

What Professor Vessels covered in his lectures in week two of Survey of Apparel Manufacturing
Survey of Apparel and Soft Goods Manufacturing
Gregory W. Vessels
Class Notes
Fashion, apparel, manufacturing, Textiles, quality, analysis, sewn products
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This 5 page Class Notes was uploaded by Ashley Pacilio on Monday February 1, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to 4250 at University of Georgia taught by Gregory W. Vessels in Spring 2016. Since its upload, it has received 11 views. For similar materials see Survey of Apparel and Soft Goods Manufacturing in Retail at University of Georgia.


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Date Created: 02/01/16
Survey Apparel Manufacturing Week Three: Day One – January 25, 2016 • I am VP of Manufacturing and VP of Logistics and Distribution • Product development – most companies separate the creative and technical design functions • High end and haute couture designs emphasize originality and novel ideas o Niche market • Most designs borrow from successful existing product lines, sometimes prior season haute couture o Adapted for more popular price points and ease of manufacturing • Design decisions regarding raw materials and garment construction greatly impact the standard cost and can move a product out of an acceptable price point • Special attention must be given to unique construction features • Freelance and outside design studios can provide new and fresh ideas but are not usually familiar with a company’s customer and manufacturing base o They tend to be more beneficial in fabric style, color and pattern along with garment features and silhouette • The merchandising calendar is used to assist management in starting the development process in a timely manner • Typical development process is 24 to 36 weeks from initial design ideas to receipt of approval samples • Add to that 12 to 24 weeks for the manufacture and distribution cycle, depending on raw material availability • Rule of thumb for most companies is to give product development twice as much time as manufacturing • No matter how well the design process is done, some large customer(s) will come in at the last minute and require a “custom” order • Often customers will have quality standards that include points of measure that are different from the MFG. This can lead to product failing customer audits after passing internal audits o Change the technical aspects of how a garment is produced • Care must be taken to insure that patterns are adjusted and Quality Audits follow customer requirements o If you don’t start the process right, then the chances of getting it right at the very end are low • Fabric testing is critical to the design process • What is the tailorability as opposed to drapability? o Drapability – how it hangs on the consumer o Tailorability – how it sews – does it sew smoothly? Are there puckers? Seam slippage? • Shrinkage issues o Issues between sample yardage vs. production yardage § Could be a huge cost factor • Seam slippage – stitches don’t hold • Color retention • Wearability – how it wears when you’re sitting, walking, wearing consistently etc. • Most common problem with his company’s products? “Well, no one ever sent anything back because it was too big” o VP of Merchandising: they don’t care what the design is as long as it sells o Making sizing specs a little bit bigger to prevent customers from sending items back because too small • Specifications: this is where the rubber meets the road o A lot of companies don’t want to do this “leg work” o But once you find a system, it works o Make sure: are specs consistent with customer grade rules, terminology and reference points? o Does MFG facility have proper equipment to comply with specs? o Are specs complete? [last minute customer changes] • Gender-neutral computer bag o Leather and canvas o Really functional – drink holder, chap stick, plug in headphones, umbrella holder o Green product o Paper – two to three pages (1000-1500 words) o Paper then powerpoint o Presentation on Friday 01/29 – § 10 to 15 minutes with question and answer at end o Name of company: o Ideal customer: fashion-forward college students and young professionals o Channels of distribution: through other stores – boutiques, shops, etc. Week Three: Day Two – January 27, 2016 • Rank other teams and your team members on eLC! • There will be a quiz due by Friday to test out Respondus Lockdown • Quality analysis: o Durability o Style o Comfort o Versatility o Ease of care o Practical o Classic • Ranking 1. Style 2. Versatility 3. Comfort 4. Durability 5. Ease of care 6. Practical 7. Classic • American consumers driven by sales prices • Tuesday 2/9 1:00-2:00 Dawson; Q and A panel discussion with Fashion Industry Leaders • Garment analysis is a process of evaluating a product to determine its suitability for market positioning, quality, value, producibility, cost, and consumer appeal • Intrinsic vs. extrinsic • This is a process engaged by industry professionals almost daily. They must receive input from various staff personal to be assured of making the correct assessment. • Apparel quality analysis should be an ongoing process • Exam next Friday, February 5 th • Someone that understand the trim and packaging cost are also critical • Goal: present a product which appeals to the target market and performs at an appropriate level for that market as to appearance, size, fit, packaging and cost • Merchandisers: responsible for development of products and product lines o Make final product decisions o Negotiate priorities among production and customers o Develop, accept, or reject modifications • Designers: responsible for aesthetics and functional aspects • Materials Buyers: select and purchase materials that are used for specific styles • Marketing managers: promotional strategies, product differentiation, consistency of image, appearance, etc. • Specification writers: prepare detailed specifications from the brief descriptions and samples provided by designers o If it doesn’t start right, it won’t finish right • Packing vs. packaging – we’ll talk more about this later • Costing engineers: anticipate costs of various styles and volume needed to make production feasible • Production Pattern Maker: maintain integrity of designs • Production managers: controlling production costs, evaluating production capacity, scheduling, and routing • Laboratory technicians: carry out analysis procedures requested by professionals • Retail buyer: anticipate sell-through of the product, which is based on promotional appeal, etc. • Retail Sales People: actually push the merchandise; determine appropriateness to end use for each customer they serve • This whole process takes about a year to do • Read the chapters in the book! • Presentations are on Friday Week Three: Day Three – January 29, 2016 • HauteCloth Clothing – Team 3 o Young women with modern pieces o Specialized boutique without the vintage pricetag § Middle to high income § Well educated, active social lives o Based online – target advertise online o Designer collaborations – Lisa Perry, Lila Rose, Alice + Olivia o VP of PD + Sourcing/Manu – Forrest Schweitzer o VP of Accounting – Cate Hollis o VP of Logistics and Distribution – Emerald Folsom o VP Operations – Taylor Wright • TechEase – Team 1 o Laptop bag o Small compartments to keep your things organized o Help to make the young professional look put-together and fashionable § Faced paced lifestyle o Monochromatic and simple o Gender neutral o Product functionality and quality o Environmentally friendly – vegan leather and natural canvas o Distribution: Apple stores, apparel retailers, building own website o VP of Product Design and Development – Savannah Roach o VP of Technical Development and Engineering – Melissa Sanders o VP of Manufacturing – Ashley Pacilio o VP of Logistics and Distribution – Ashley Pacilio o VP of Purchasing, Raw Materials & Inventory – Elizabeth Reid o VP of Finance and Accounting – Rachel Haviland o VP of Production and Operations – Melissa Tillery • Andro – Team 2 o Gender neutral athletic clothing o No fitted clothing o Based off of measurements instead of one-size fits all (XS/S, S/M, M/L, L/XL) o Target customers: millennial of middle-upper class § Urban, trendy o Direct to consumer (ex. Warby Parker) o Primarily online with pop-up stores o Collaborations with existing stores (ex. Madewell for Nordstrom) • Quiz next Friday, February 5th • Quality is free • Quality has a quality all of its own • Quality is in the eye of the beholder • Guru’s for quality? Dr. Edward Deming, Phillip B. Crosby, Joseph M. Juran • Dr. Deming: Espoused statistical process control (SPC) o His philosophy, Improving quality and reduce expenses thereby increasing productivity and market share. • SPC – over time quality starts to shift, and if you track through statistical sampling you can determine when to retool or correct the problem to ensure superior quality • Set a standard that’s more than what you expect • Deming’s 14 key principles 1. Create constancy of purpose toward improvement 2. Adopt the new philosophy to embrace change 3. Cease dependence on inspection to achieve quality 4. Stop awarding business on basis of price tag 5. Improve constantly 6. Institute training on the job 7. Institute leadership 8. Drive out fear (failure, etc.) 9. Break down barriers between departments 10.Eliminate slogans 11.Remove barriers that rob workers pride of workmanship 12.Remove barriers that rob managers and engineers of pride of workmanship 13.Institute a rigorous program of education and self improvement 14.Put everybody in the company to work to accomplish the transformation. • Deming’s 7 deadly diseases 1. Lack of constancy of purpose 2. Emphasis on short term priorities 3. Evaluation by performance, merit ratings 4. Mobility of management 5. Running a company on visible numbers only 6. Excessive medical cost 7. Excessive cost of warranty fueled by lawyers who work for contingency fees • Challenge #2 has been posted o Construction and points of differentiation o Make your product uniquely superior


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