TXMI 4250 Week Four Notes
TXMI 4250 Week Four Notes 4250
Popular in Survey of Apparel and Soft Goods Manufacturing
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This 4 page Class Notes was uploaded by Ashley Pacilio on Friday February 5, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to 4250 at University of Georgia taught by Gregory W. Vessels in Spring 2016. Since its upload, it has received 15 views. For similar materials see Survey of Apparel and Soft Goods Manufacturing in Retail at University of Georgia.
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Date Created: 02/05/16
Survey Apparel Manufacturing Week Four: Day One – February 01, 2016 • Philip Crosby – Zero defects • 4 Principles of Quality: 1. The definition of quality is conformance to requirements 2. The system of quality is prevention 3. The performance standard is zero defects 4. The measurement of quality is the price of nonconformance • Juran’s contributions to quality o Pareto principle – 80% of the effects come from 20% of the causes o Management theory based on acceptance sampling and control charts o Juran’s trilogy – 3 management processes for quality § Quality planning § Quality control § Quality improvement • Thoughts on the 3 Guru’s of quality?? • Fabric selection: for all garments there are minimum requirements regarding function, fit and fashion o A quality product starts with selecting the right fabric for the intended use o In today’s environment most garments never get tested for durability because we don’t wear long enough • Industrial laundry business is one where longevity is important • Once the correct fabric is selected there are many steps in manufacturing that must be monitored to insure good quality is delivered • Process begins with inspection upon arrival at the factory • Normally 10% would be inspected to insure the textile mill is in fact good quality – if it’s not, they keep testing another 10% • Inspection: roll length, fabric weight, shade, roll width (sort by width to ¼ inch), mark defects, mill fabric mapping • Even though you have a very competent pattern department • The fit can ve altered if the cutter is not diligent in cutting the line o Possible errors: off line, knife lean, notches too deep, missed notches, dull knife causing frays, improper fly count • Check for cutting accuracy o Check cut bundle against marker o Beck bottom ply against top ply o Check ply count • Mistakes made in other processes can be corrected by skilled seamstresses and often are • It’s imperative that each operation be executed within some small tolerance • Most sewing operations are expected to be within +/- 1/16 inch • Even with that small tolerance a pair of paints waist dimension could be off by half an inch • Possible sewing mistakes o Too wide or narrow seams o Seam run-offs o Skipped stitches o Improper alignment o Seam pucker o Stretching the fabric o Mismatching plies causing shade problems • Packaging and packing errors o Correct labeling, tagging, packaging, and count are critical in getting garments accepted by the customer o Even simple mistakes can ve cause for charge-backs or rejection o When business is slow, retailers are more critical • POKA YOKA – a Japanese term for making the operation fool proof o Design the workplace where it will be very difficult for the operator to make mistakes • 100% inspection has been proven that is not effective because o Very expensive o Operators make many mistakes § From boredom § Casualness § Lack of caring • Statistical Quality Control (SQS) o Sampling plan – deliver better results o Audits at various stages o Pick the proper sample size o Determine the pass/fail ratios o Make sure the sample is random o Conduct final audits to confirm • Sampling plan o In process at various pre selected stages o Pass/fail o If fail operator must go through the entire bundle and check each piece o Repair mistakes o Once completed must submit for re-examine • Military Standard 105D o A sampling plan developed by the military for checking its vendors o Has become the standard for which sewn products are judged o Has been adopted by the ASQC o Typically companies strive for a 4.0 or 2.5 Acceptable Outgoing Quality Level (AOQL) • Aesthetics: an adornment or other feature that distinguishes the product without affecting its functionality o Decorative stitch on patch pockets o Embroidery (woven) o Screen print (knit) o Garment dye • Impractical to send defective goods back to the vendor • Imperative that inspected before it ships • Many have hired quality assurance services to inspect the garments • Slub on front of coat – major defect o Slub under arm of coat – minor defect • Quality is perceived differently by everyone • In process sampling prevents surprises • Detailed specs help to prevent conflicts • Agreed upon sampling plans are helpful • Not every garment is going to be perfect th • Second challenge is due Friday, February 12 , 2016 • Bring questions for the review Wednesday • Test is based on powerpoints and his lectures o Background information is in the book th • Test is Friday, February 5 , 2016 Week Four: Day Two – February 03, 2016 • Quiz: February 5 o Chapters 1-7 o No classmates on this one o Class discussion o Power points and instructor comments o Bring your laptops!!! • Building a tech pack o 30% failure rate o Over 50% failure due to specification errors • Tech packs are the start of the manufacturing process • The bottom line is getting complete and accurate information to the sewing floor so there is no chance for misunderstanding • A tech pack is all the instructions a factory needs to create a design • A tech pack will contain: o A technical sketch front and back o Close ups of unusual details o Construction and sewing details o Measurements o Sizing requirements o A list of fabrics, etc. • Can use photos instead of sketches if you’ve made samples • Give all the instructions a factory will need – get extremely detailed • If you don’t have a correct tech pack, you will have errors • If it’s not critical information, let the factory do it the way they’re used to because it will be better and cheaper • Our team’s point total: 130 Week Four: Day One – February 05, 2016
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