Textiles Notes Week 5 (2/15 - 2/17)
Textiles Notes Week 5 (2/15 - 2/17) DM 120-001
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This 0 page Class Notes was uploaded by Sadie Threlkel on Sunday February 21, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to DM 120-001 at Colorado State University taught by Yan Li in Spring 2016. Since its upload, it has received 22 views. For similar materials see Textiles in Industrial Engineering at Colorado State University.
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Date Created: 02/21/16
Textiles Notes 215 217 215 Cotton Yarns Carded and Combed methods to make cotton spun yarns Carded 0 Used for rugged look on denim 0 Fuzzy soft bulkiness terrycloth annel O Staple cotton fibers are carded to be cleaned and disentangled Combed O Carded cotton sliver loose fiber is further cleaned in in combing unit removes shorter fibers reserves longer fibers then becomes a combed yarn 0 Looks better feels smoother stronger more expensive Woolen Yarns Woolen and Worsted Woolen 0 Made of carded yarns 0 Fuzzier more uneven diameter Worsted 0 Made of combed yarns 0 Smooth even diameter Comparison Woolen more important in heavy winter coats ski sweaters blankets better insulation Worsted have better shape stability because they are usually firmer and denser Yarn Numbering Systems The relationship between a unit length and weight of yarns Re ects the diameter or thickness of the yarn Filament Yarns Denier System direct system weight per unit length Spun Yarns YamCount system indirect system length per unit weight Denier System Tex Denier or den weight per 9000 meters Larger number heavier yarm EX 1 denier a yarn in which 9000 meters if weighed would equal 1 gram Weight per 1000 meters EX 20 tex a yarn in which 1000 meters if weighed would equal 20 grams 1 teX 9 denier Yarn Count System Cotton count cc cc Ne Nee the number of 840 yards in one pound EX 2cc 2 X 840 1680 yards in one pound Worsted count WC New the number of 560 yards in one pound EX 2wc 2 X 560 1120 yards in one pound Single and Ply Yarns Ply yarns are stronger than singles when both are the same size 2 ply 3 ply 4 ply etc Spun Yarn Ply yarn and single yarn equivalent Yam count system 602 two yarns with 60 strands each 301 would be the single yarn equivalent for 602 The number of single yarn in ply yarn divided by number of ply equivalent count in a single yarn EX 603 the equivalent is 201 217 Denier System Denier of a single yarn in a ply yarn multiplied by the number of ply equivalent count in a single yarn EX 100d3 the equivalent is 300d Woven Fabrics Interlocking yarns at right angles Warpends lengthwise yarns Fillingpicks widthwise yarns Selvages lengthwise edges of the fabric Grain direction parallel to either warp or filling yarns On grain fabric cut parallel to either the warp or filling yarns Off grainbias direction not parallel to either yarns Looms Types of Looms Projectile looms Rapier looms Jet looms 0 Airjet loom O Waterjet loom Multiphase looms Fabric Features Identifying warp yarns and filling yarns Salvage yarn sizes twist yarns per inch ply yarns stiffness stretch ability stripes Determining the Weave of a Fabric Warp yarn direction horizontal or vertical Yarn on top of the weave Weave Floats Float one yarn does not interlace but passes over two or more adjacent yarns Plain Weave Simplest most used weave Each warp yarn passes alternately over one then under one filling yarn for the whole length of the fabric Firm construction wear well ravel less Offer a good background for printed and decorative designs More wrinkle Low tearing strength Looks like checker board on graph paper Ribbed Plain Weave Filling yarns are thicker than the warp yarns Also called unbalanced fabric Looks unbalanced used on upholstery Basket Weave Two or more yarns interlace two or more filling yarns The groups of yarns interlace in plain weave sequence End use monk s cloth and hopsacking A decorative weave due to low durability easy shrink difficult to sew slippage low shape stability Twill Weaves Left hand twill line runs up and to the left Right hand twill diagonals run up and to the right jeans In a 21 twill 2 up 1 down each warp yarn passes over 2 filling yarns and under 1 filling yarn Every warp yarn laces in the same order Each succeeding warp yarn starts the sequence of one of more filling yarns higher or one or more filling yarns lower If one filling yarn higher the weave is 45 degree right handed twill diagonals on graph paper
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