New User Special Price Expires in

Let's log you in.

Sign in with Facebook


Don't have a StudySoup account? Create one here!


Create a StudySoup account

Be part of our community, it's free to join!

Sign up with Facebook


Create your account
By creating an account you agree to StudySoup's terms and conditions and privacy policy

Already have a StudySoup account? Login here

Chapter 9 textbook notes

by: Cazares Annelle

Chapter 9 textbook notes TXA 325M

Cazares Annelle
View Full Document for 0 Karma

View Full Document


Unlock These Notes for FREE

Enter your email below and we will instantly email you these Notes for History of Dress and Cultural Change II

(Limited time offer)

Unlock Notes

Already have a StudySoup account? Login here

Unlock FREE Class Notes

Enter your email below to receive History of Dress and Cultural Change II notes

Everyone needs better class notes. Enter your email and we will send you notes for this class for free.

Unlock FREE notes

About this Document

This is a simple guide and breakdown of what is covered in the chapter. I do plan to re-edit these notes as well as Chapter 10. I will create a quizlet for the vocab terms momentarily. I will also ...
History of Dress and Cultural Change II
Gail Chovan, MA
Class Notes
Fashion, Dress, Textiles, apparel




Popular in History of Dress and Cultural Change II

Popular in School of Human Ecology

This 6 page Class Notes was uploaded by Cazares Annelle on Saturday August 13, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXA 325M at University of Texas at Austin taught by Gail Chovan, MA in Fall 2016. Since its upload, it has received 58 views. For similar materials see History of Dress and Cultural Change II in School of Human Ecology at University of Texas at Austin.


Reviews for Chapter 9 textbook notes


Report this Material


What is Karma?


Karma is the currency of StudySoup.

You can buy or earn more Karma at anytime and redeem it for class notes, study guides, flashcards, and more!

Date Created: 08/13/16
Part 4: Baroque Era th Chapter 9: The 17 Century Introduction: th a. Mannerist replaced Renaissance in the arts in late 16 century. a. Real representation of religious themes. b. Appeal to emotions of beholder. c. Bridge between Renaissance and Baroque styles. d. Baroque spread from Alps into Northern Europe. I. Historic Background a. France i. Louis XIV dominate figure of era. 1. 1643-1715, 72 years of power since the age of 5 2. Stopped rebellion by keeping nobles busy spending money and waiting on him. 3. Evicted Edict of Nantes, which brought peace between Catholics, Protestants, and Huguenots. a. Huguenots skilled in silk brought now labor to England. 4. Tried to dominate Europe through wars, but only made country exhausted. 5. Style copied throughout England. b. England i. James I 1. Religious policies against Puritans cause them to pilgrim to America. ii. Charles I 1. Monarch had God-given right to rule. 2. Against Puritans and levied taxes without consent to Parliament. II. Distinctive Costume Traditions a. Puritan Costume i. Sad, drab, simple way of style ii. Men cut hair instead of curls worn by Cavaliers, “Roundheads iii. Brought current styles of England in the sail of 1620. b. Spanish Costume th i. By 17 century, Spain was being left behind. ii. More conservative than other countries. 1. Verdugado: Spanish farthingale 2. Mantilla: Spanish veil covering hair 3. Guardinfante: More oval than French, greater side width 4. Basque: Extension of bodice below waistline iii. Men’s styles also changed, retained ruff and truck hose longer then England. III. Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing a. Draw loom: Machine to make silk. Operated by children. i. Invented in China, used in Italy, and made silk fabric available in 1600s b. Tailors worked for the wealthy, women of household made clothes in lower classes. i. 1675, Women became Tailors. th IV. Costume for Men: 17 century a. 1625-1650 i. Garments 1. Shirt full, white linen, flat collar “falling band” 2. Cuffs and collars laced and decoyed 3. Doublet worn over shirt, reached to hips 4. Breeches cut at knee, might be laced or decoyed. 5. Balagny: French cape that Larger, circular, worn over shoulder, and cord to secure 6. Cassocks/Casaques: Coats with wide full sleeves ending at thigh or elbow. ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Men had curly long hair 2. Beards trimmed to a point, moustaches long and curled 3. Love Lock: One lock of hair longer than the rest. iii. Footwear 1. Heeled shoes and boots 2. Straight soles: No shaping for certain foot, difficult to apply to heels. 3. Slap soles: Flat sole attached to tip of shoe, stop from heel sinking. 4. Latches: Shoes with large open sides and extensions 5. Knee high boots important, and hose and stockings. b. 1650-1680 i. Garments 1. Doublet changes caused shirt to become important 2. 1665, long linen tie alternative to collar 3. Doublet shortened, sleeveless forms. 4. Petticoat breeches/Rhinegraves: cut so full, appears to be short skirt. 5. Canons: Full, wide, ruffles attached to bottom of breeches. ii. The Vest 1. Below the knee, worn over narrow breeches. 2. In combo w/ long coat, shirt and breeches, became basic dress in England and France iii. Outwear 1. Cloaks, Capes, coats cut full 2. Some ending at knee iv. Hair and Headdress 1. Shaved for a long curly wig or natural 2. Hats indicated political associtation 3. Hats worn in, out, and church v. Footwear 1. Shoes had elaborate trimmings w/ ribbon, buckle, 2. Shoes were favored for fashion, boots for riding/ bad weather. 3. Galosh: flat-soled overshoe with toe cap. 4. Louis XIV credited for popularizing the red-healed and sold shoes. c. 1680-1710s i. Garments 1. Cravats: long narrow scarf pieces replaced collars. 2. Surtouts/Justacorps/Cassocks: knee length coats replaced doublets as outwear. Fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs, buttoned down front. Covered breeches and waistcoat. 3. Vest/Waistcoat: Shorter and less full than outer coats. Some made without sleeves b4 1700. 4. Breeches less full, ended at knee. ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Wigs were bigger, often powdered to look white. Natural was also worn. 2. Tricorne: flat hats with 3 turned up brims. iii. Footwear 1. Shoes over boots for general wear 2. Shoe buckles made to transfer. 3. Jack boots: High, rigid, boots made from heavy leather worn for riding. 4. Knee length stockings worn with knee breeches. V. Costume for Women: 17 century a. 1630-1660 i. Garments 1. White linen chemise is undermost 2. Gowns made with bodices and skirts seemed together at waist. Gowned served as a layer, open at center front. 3. Bodice: Like a corset. Had a long U-Shaped stomacher at front and filled upper part of the gown. 4. Skirts separate under gowns, visible when gown is open. a. Outer Layer: Modeste b. Under Layer: Secret 5. Jackets worn with skirts, comfier and simple for home wear. 6. Virago: Sleeves paned and tied to make series of puffs. 7. Necklines low, in diff shapes. Neckerchiefs also common. 8. Capes worn outdoors ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Tuck hair with a chignon at the back. Frame pieces curled. 2. Hats worn inside and out, also bareheaded. iii. Footwear 1. Similar to men. 2. Bad weather had toe-capped clogs, no heals, with wooden soles. b. 1660-1680 i. Garments 1. Chemises under petticoat, shown at neckline and edge of sleeves. 2. Bodices lengthened and narrowed, long-waisted and slenderer. a. Satin fabrics formal, fabrics bright colored 3. Whisk: white lace collar/band of linen. 4. Necklines low, horizontal/ oval in shape. Off-shoulder appeared. 5. Skirts were straight/closed/split/ looped over hips. 6. Décor was a row of ruffles down front or jeweled/braided lines put on top of seam line. c. 1680-1700s i. Garments 1. Necklines revealed less and became more square 2. Corsets visible and heavily decorated, made a “V shape” 3. If skirt layers too heavy, support made from whalebone, metal, or basketwork was applied. 4. Underskirt visible and ornamented 5. Mantua/Manteau: bodice and skirt cut in one length. Full, worn over corset an underskirt. Loose for casual but fitted for formal. 6. Coats worn for riding or walking. ii. Hair and Headdresses 1. Hair built high with curled locks 2. Fontage/Commode: Worn on head. Advanced to multiple tiers of lace with ruffles/bows in back iii. Footwear 1. Shoes narrower and heels higher, ties used to close them. 2. Brocades and decorated leather for fashion shoes. 3. Pantofles: heel-less slippers. Early designs made with cork soles and used as overshoes. Sole made with leather and worn indoors by 1700s. 4. Stocking knitted or embroidered. VI. Costume for Men and Women: 17 century a. Accessories i. Not easily separated by era. ii. Both men and women had scented gloves, hanky and purses, muffs. iii. Women had facemasks, aprons for chores/décor, and fans. b. Jewelry i. Men 1. Neck chains 2. Pendants 3. Lockets 4. Rings 5. Earrins (1 part) ii. Women 1. Necklaces 2. Bracelets 3. Earrings 4. Rings 5. Pomander Balls: Balls of perfume on chain at waist c. Cosmetics and Grooming i. Lead combs darken eyebrows. Paint and power for the face. ii. Red lips and nails for women iii. Patches: fabric shapes to cover blemishes iv. Plumpers: balls of wax in cheeks to make face rounder v. Night masks VII. Costume for Children: 17 Century a. Past, children dressed as miniature adults b. 16 century, this changed for boys. i. Swaddling clothes ii. Skirt iii. Robe 1. Long robe: 3-4 years iv. Apron v. Adult Styles: 6-7 years 1. Breeching: Celebrate first breeches c. Traditional fashion for children i. Long robes for men given to upper class children during High Middle Ages. ii. Infants cap identical to medieval coif d. Leading Strings: small strings to hold child upright. i. Possibly hanging sleeves from medieval costume. e. Separate dress for children indicated childhood as a separate stage of life. VIII. Costume Components for Children a. Layette i. Swaddling bands, bibs, cap, shirts, mittens, and sleeves, diapers ii. Linen cloth a dense checked pattern for diapers b. Swaddling Bands i. 2-3 months ii. Baby can’t move iii. Staybands/Rollers: Bands replaced by thick corded/quilted material tied tightly around body. 1. Prevent umbilical hernias and promote posture c. Christenings i. Major event in 1 year ii. Generally, the same across centuries iii. Usual Layette with a long embroidered christening gown. d. Gowns i. Carrying frocks: long gowns for infants who can’t walk. ii. Going Frocks: shorter dresses for walking children iii. Pinafore: Replace bibs. Pinned to front of gown. iv. Muckinder: Handkerchief for extra protection v. Pudding: Padded cap to protect head vi. Young boy attire 17 century: 5-7 years wore waistcoat with long full gathered skirt e. Coral Teething i. Cool hard surface for babies to teeth on. ii. Since Roman Era, magical power to ward off evil.


Buy Material

Are you sure you want to buy this material for

0 Karma

Buy Material

BOOM! Enjoy Your Free Notes!

We've added these Notes to your profile, click here to view them now.


You're already Subscribed!

Looks like you've already subscribed to StudySoup, you won't need to purchase another subscription to get this material. To access this material simply click 'View Full Document'

Why people love StudySoup

Bentley McCaw University of Florida

"I was shooting for a perfect 4.0 GPA this semester. Having StudySoup as a study aid was critical to helping me achieve my goal...and I nailed it!"

Janice Dongeun University of Washington

"I used the money I made selling my notes & study guides to pay for spring break in Olympia, Washington...which was Sweet!"

Bentley McCaw University of Florida

"I was shooting for a perfect 4.0 GPA this semester. Having StudySoup as a study aid was critical to helping me achieve my goal...and I nailed it!"

Parker Thompson 500 Startups

"It's a great way for students to improve their educational experience and it seemed like a product that everybody wants, so all the people participating are winning."

Become an Elite Notetaker and start selling your notes online!

Refund Policy


All subscriptions to StudySoup are paid in full at the time of subscribing. To change your credit card information or to cancel your subscription, go to "Edit Settings". All credit card information will be available there. If you should decide to cancel your subscription, it will continue to be valid until the next payment period, as all payments for the current period were made in advance. For special circumstances, please email


StudySoup has more than 1 million course-specific study resources to help students study smarter. If you’re having trouble finding what you’re looking for, our customer support team can help you find what you need! Feel free to contact them here:

Recurring Subscriptions: If you have canceled your recurring subscription on the day of renewal and have not downloaded any documents, you may request a refund by submitting an email to

Satisfaction Guarantee: If you’re not satisfied with your subscription, you can contact us for further help. Contact must be made within 3 business days of your subscription purchase and your refund request will be subject for review.

Please Note: Refunds can never be provided more than 30 days after the initial purchase date regardless of your activity on the site.