Chapter 9 textbook notes
Chapter 9 textbook notes TXA 325M
Popular in History of Dress and Cultural Change II
Popular in School of Human Ecology
This 6 page Class Notes was uploaded by Cazares Annelle on Saturday August 13, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXA 325M at University of Texas at Austin taught by Gail Chovan, MA in Fall 2016. Since its upload, it has received 58 views. For similar materials see History of Dress and Cultural Change II in School of Human Ecology at University of Texas at Austin.
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Date Created: 08/13/16
Part 4: Baroque Era th Chapter 9: The 17 Century Introduction: th a. Mannerist replaced Renaissance in the arts in late 16 century. a. Real representation of religious themes. b. Appeal to emotions of beholder. c. Bridge between Renaissance and Baroque styles. d. Baroque spread from Alps into Northern Europe. I. Historic Background a. France i. Louis XIV dominate figure of era. 1. 1643-1715, 72 years of power since the age of 5 2. Stopped rebellion by keeping nobles busy spending money and waiting on him. 3. Evicted Edict of Nantes, which brought peace between Catholics, Protestants, and Huguenots. a. Huguenots skilled in silk brought now labor to England. 4. Tried to dominate Europe through wars, but only made country exhausted. 5. Style copied throughout England. b. England i. James I 1. Religious policies against Puritans cause them to pilgrim to America. ii. Charles I 1. Monarch had God-given right to rule. 2. Against Puritans and levied taxes without consent to Parliament. II. Distinctive Costume Traditions a. Puritan Costume i. Sad, drab, simple way of style ii. Men cut hair instead of curls worn by Cavaliers, “Roundheads iii. Brought current styles of England in the sail of 1620. b. Spanish Costume th i. By 17 century, Spain was being left behind. ii. More conservative than other countries. 1. Verdugado: Spanish farthingale 2. Mantilla: Spanish veil covering hair 3. Guardinfante: More oval than French, greater side width 4. Basque: Extension of bodice below waistline iii. Men’s styles also changed, retained ruff and truck hose longer then England. III. Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing a. Draw loom: Machine to make silk. Operated by children. i. Invented in China, used in Italy, and made silk fabric available in 1600s b. Tailors worked for the wealthy, women of household made clothes in lower classes. i. 1675, Women became Tailors. th IV. Costume for Men: 17 century a. 1625-1650 i. Garments 1. Shirt full, white linen, flat collar “falling band” 2. Cuffs and collars laced and decoyed 3. Doublet worn over shirt, reached to hips 4. Breeches cut at knee, might be laced or decoyed. 5. Balagny: French cape that Larger, circular, worn over shoulder, and cord to secure 6. Cassocks/Casaques: Coats with wide full sleeves ending at thigh or elbow. ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Men had curly long hair 2. Beards trimmed to a point, moustaches long and curled 3. Love Lock: One lock of hair longer than the rest. iii. Footwear 1. Heeled shoes and boots 2. Straight soles: No shaping for certain foot, difficult to apply to heels. 3. Slap soles: Flat sole attached to tip of shoe, stop from heel sinking. 4. Latches: Shoes with large open sides and extensions 5. Knee high boots important, and hose and stockings. b. 1650-1680 i. Garments 1. Doublet changes caused shirt to become important 2. 1665, long linen tie alternative to collar 3. Doublet shortened, sleeveless forms. 4. Petticoat breeches/Rhinegraves: cut so full, appears to be short skirt. 5. Canons: Full, wide, ruffles attached to bottom of breeches. ii. The Vest 1. Below the knee, worn over narrow breeches. 2. In combo w/ long coat, shirt and breeches, became basic dress in England and France iii. Outwear 1. Cloaks, Capes, coats cut full 2. Some ending at knee iv. Hair and Headdress 1. Shaved for a long curly wig or natural 2. Hats indicated political associtation 3. Hats worn in, out, and church v. Footwear 1. Shoes had elaborate trimmings w/ ribbon, buckle, 2. Shoes were favored for fashion, boots for riding/ bad weather. 3. Galosh: flat-soled overshoe with toe cap. 4. Louis XIV credited for popularizing the red-healed and sold shoes. c. 1680-1710s i. Garments 1. Cravats: long narrow scarf pieces replaced collars. 2. Surtouts/Justacorps/Cassocks: knee length coats replaced doublets as outwear. Fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs, buttoned down front. Covered breeches and waistcoat. 3. Vest/Waistcoat: Shorter and less full than outer coats. Some made without sleeves b4 1700. 4. Breeches less full, ended at knee. ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Wigs were bigger, often powdered to look white. Natural was also worn. 2. Tricorne: flat hats with 3 turned up brims. iii. Footwear 1. Shoes over boots for general wear 2. Shoe buckles made to transfer. 3. Jack boots: High, rigid, boots made from heavy leather worn for riding. 4. Knee length stockings worn with knee breeches. V. Costume for Women: 17 century a. 1630-1660 i. Garments 1. White linen chemise is undermost 2. Gowns made with bodices and skirts seemed together at waist. Gowned served as a layer, open at center front. 3. Bodice: Like a corset. Had a long U-Shaped stomacher at front and filled upper part of the gown. 4. Skirts separate under gowns, visible when gown is open. a. Outer Layer: Modeste b. Under Layer: Secret 5. Jackets worn with skirts, comfier and simple for home wear. 6. Virago: Sleeves paned and tied to make series of puffs. 7. Necklines low, in diff shapes. Neckerchiefs also common. 8. Capes worn outdoors ii. Hair and Headdress 1. Tuck hair with a chignon at the back. Frame pieces curled. 2. Hats worn inside and out, also bareheaded. iii. Footwear 1. Similar to men. 2. Bad weather had toe-capped clogs, no heals, with wooden soles. b. 1660-1680 i. Garments 1. Chemises under petticoat, shown at neckline and edge of sleeves. 2. Bodices lengthened and narrowed, long-waisted and slenderer. a. Satin fabrics formal, fabrics bright colored 3. Whisk: white lace collar/band of linen. 4. Necklines low, horizontal/ oval in shape. Off-shoulder appeared. 5. Skirts were straight/closed/split/ looped over hips. 6. Décor was a row of ruffles down front or jeweled/braided lines put on top of seam line. c. 1680-1700s i. Garments 1. Necklines revealed less and became more square 2. Corsets visible and heavily decorated, made a “V shape” 3. If skirt layers too heavy, support made from whalebone, metal, or basketwork was applied. 4. Underskirt visible and ornamented 5. Mantua/Manteau: bodice and skirt cut in one length. Full, worn over corset an underskirt. Loose for casual but fitted for formal. 6. Coats worn for riding or walking. ii. Hair and Headdresses 1. Hair built high with curled locks 2. Fontage/Commode: Worn on head. Advanced to multiple tiers of lace with ruffles/bows in back iii. Footwear 1. Shoes narrower and heels higher, ties used to close them. 2. Brocades and decorated leather for fashion shoes. 3. Pantofles: heel-less slippers. Early designs made with cork soles and used as overshoes. Sole made with leather and worn indoors by 1700s. 4. Stocking knitted or embroidered. VI. Costume for Men and Women: 17 century a. Accessories i. Not easily separated by era. ii. Both men and women had scented gloves, hanky and purses, muffs. iii. Women had facemasks, aprons for chores/décor, and fans. b. Jewelry i. Men 1. Neck chains 2. Pendants 3. Lockets 4. Rings 5. Earrins (1 part) ii. Women 1. Necklaces 2. Bracelets 3. Earrings 4. Rings 5. Pomander Balls: Balls of perfume on chain at waist c. Cosmetics and Grooming i. Lead combs darken eyebrows. Paint and power for the face. ii. Red lips and nails for women iii. Patches: fabric shapes to cover blemishes iv. Plumpers: balls of wax in cheeks to make face rounder v. Night masks VII. Costume for Children: 17 Century a. Past, children dressed as miniature adults b. 16 century, this changed for boys. i. Swaddling clothes ii. Skirt iii. Robe 1. Long robe: 3-4 years iv. Apron v. Adult Styles: 6-7 years 1. Breeching: Celebrate first breeches c. Traditional fashion for children i. Long robes for men given to upper class children during High Middle Ages. ii. Infants cap identical to medieval coif d. Leading Strings: small strings to hold child upright. i. Possibly hanging sleeves from medieval costume. e. Separate dress for children indicated childhood as a separate stage of life. VIII. Costume Components for Children a. Layette i. Swaddling bands, bibs, cap, shirts, mittens, and sleeves, diapers ii. Linen cloth a dense checked pattern for diapers b. Swaddling Bands i. 2-3 months ii. Baby can’t move iii. Staybands/Rollers: Bands replaced by thick corded/quilted material tied tightly around body. 1. Prevent umbilical hernias and promote posture c. Christenings i. Major event in 1 year ii. Generally, the same across centuries iii. Usual Layette with a long embroidered christening gown. d. Gowns i. Carrying frocks: long gowns for infants who can’t walk. ii. Going Frocks: shorter dresses for walking children iii. Pinafore: Replace bibs. Pinned to front of gown. iv. Muckinder: Handkerchief for extra protection v. Pudding: Padded cap to protect head vi. Young boy attire 17 century: 5-7 years wore waistcoat with long full gathered skirt e. Coral Teething i. Cool hard surface for babies to teeth on. ii. Since Roman Era, magical power to ward off evil.
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