New User Special Price Expires in

Let's log you in.

Sign in with Facebook


Don't have a StudySoup account? Create one here!


Create a StudySoup account

Be part of our community, it's free to join!

Sign up with Facebook


Create your account
By creating an account you agree to StudySoup's terms and conditions and privacy policy

Already have a StudySoup account? Login here

Chapter 10 Notes

by: Cazares Annelle

Chapter 10 Notes TXA 325M

Cazares Annelle

Preview These Notes for FREE

Get a free preview of these Notes, just enter your email below.

Unlock Preview
Unlock Preview

Preview these materials now for free

Why put in your email? Get access to more of this material and other relevant free materials for your school

View Preview

About this Document

Notes breaking down what was covered in Chapter 10
History of Dress and Cultural Change II
Gail Chovan, MA
Class Notes
Textiles, apparel, Baroque, Dress, history
25 ?




Popular in History of Dress and Cultural Change II

Popular in School of Human Ecology

This 7 page Class Notes was uploaded by Cazares Annelle on Tuesday September 6, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to TXA 325M at University of Texas at Austin taught by Gail Chovan, MA in Fall 2016. Since its upload, it has received 12 views. For similar materials see History of Dress and Cultural Change II in School of Human Ecology at University of Texas at Austin.

Similar to TXA 325M at UT

Popular in School of Human Ecology


Reviews for Chapter 10 Notes


Report this Material


What is Karma?


Karma is the currency of StudySoup.

You can buy or earn more Karma at anytime and redeem it for class notes, study guides, flashcards, and more!

Date Created: 09/06/16
I. Historical Background a. Rococo reached height during Louis XV reign b. Not very popular King i. Wasn’t qualified to rule ii. Wars put France in debt iii. Never solved debt iv. Lavish life while France starved c. France was popular tho i. Dominated culture of western Europe ii. French international language of Europe d. Louis XVI well­meaning king i. Hunted, made and fixed locks ii. Unfit for the position of King e. Marie Antoinette i. 14­year­old Austrian princess, wife of Louis XVI ii. Didn’t like customs of French court iii. Unpopularity led to no support for monarchy f. French Revolution i. Philosophers criticized French society and Government 1. American Revolution inspired their own 2. Defeat with Austria and Prussia allowed radicals to take over a. Ended monarchy and rulers ii. National Assembly  1. Formed from bankruptcy of 1789 2. Wrote own constitution g. The Arts i. Discovery of Pompeii and Herculaneum  1. Increased interest in classical antiquity 2. Neoclassical styles appeared in art and architecture mid  century a. Women’s fashion end of century ii. French Influence 1. In some way, European countries had connections with  France a. Led to French influence of court styles i. Only Venice was independent until Napoleon  handed it to Austria h. Georgian Era i. Occurred in England ii. Queen Anne, then George 1­3 ruled during the Century i. Anglo mania (1780) i. English ideas strong on France in late 1700s in government and  civil rights ii. Influence extended to fashion II. 18  Century French Society a. 1723, Louis XV returned to Versailles after left abandon  i. Royal center, previously France b. Madame de Pompadour i. Official Mistress of Louis XV ii. Major influence on styles on art during reign c. Marie Antoinette i. Created tension with court ii. Abandoned Traditional court etiquette  iii. Freely bought clothes, jewelry, in bad economy iv. Factor for decline in support for monarchy  III. 18  century English Society a. Less centered on court than France b. Diversity of Occupations i. Many apprentice’s had different occupations with clothing 1. Ex: Shoe and Wig makers, tailors c. Men Fashion Categories i. Undress­lounging clothes ii. Dress­daytime/evening wear iii. Full dress­formal evening iv. Nightgown­dressing/informal gown worn indoors v. Powdering jacket­Wear to protect against wig powder vi. Frock coat­ Men’s coat d. Women Fashion Categories i. Undress/Half­dress/Morning dress­House wear ii. Habit­Riding/Tailor made costume  iii. Coat­Petticoat iv. Greatcoat­Coat v. False rump­Bustle e. Different classes mix and mingled, even married!  IV. American Colonies 18  century a. Following Fashion i. Imported and copied European clothes b. Quakers i. Men wore plain hats and no wigs ii. Women wore plain hats, replaced by plain bonnets c. Working Class i. Made for convenience  1. Chemise, petticoat skirt, and short gown 2. Apron, neck kerchief, and head cap d. Laborers i. Farmers and artisans had smocks 1. Laborers placed a leather apron over it e. Native American Style i. Frontier men copied style ii. Deerskin smock and shirt iii. Fringes iv. Deerskin leggings for woodland travel v. Caps with animal tail V. Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles a. Advances in Textile Technology i. Weaving speed increased, more yarn consumed ii. Steam and waterpower ran machinery iii. Cotton benefitted, thus, much cheaper  b. Home versus Factory Production i. Colonies important British market ii. British banned Colonies from buying Asian goods 1. Britain sold Asian goods to Colonies iii. Colonies couldn’t buy from France 1. After revolution, restriction lifted iv. Lower Classes 1. Made own clothes 2. Professionals hopped from home to home to weave a. Some had own shops c. Clothing Manufacturing and Sale i. Affluent had clothes made  ii. Ready to wear always around iii. Lower classes  1. Country made clothes, townspeople paid high prices for  clothes 2. Very common to steal clothes 3. People bought from thieves  VI. Influences on Costume  a. Asian trade influenced styles i. Asian fabrics and European replicas made into handsome  garments b. Anglomania i. French crazy for British style ii. Simpler styles, riding habits, and Ridingtotes iii. Only elaborate in court styles VII. Sources of Information about Costume i. Museums and Paintings ii. Portraitists Joshua Reynolds hated the fashion.  b. Costume for Men 18  century: Garments i. Drawers ii. Shirts were the same iii. Steinkirk th c. Men Costume mid­18  century i. Boot cuffs ii. Fall iii. Frock coats iv. Smock frock v. Ditto suit d. Changes after Mid­18  century i. Shape of Outfits 1. Fullness of coats decreased 2. Side pleats for swords removed 3. Silhouette narrowed  4. Front coat curved towards side ii. Stocks iii. Surtouts replaced capes and cloaks iv. Indian Gowns/ Banyans 1. Strong Asian Influence e. Hair and Headdress i. Full­bottomed wigs and toupees ii. Higher and wider in 1750 and 1780, respectively iii. Queues, club wigs/ catogans 1. Human, horse, goat hair 2. Powdered for formal wigs iv. Chapeau bras v. Tricornes (19  century) /bicornes (1780) vi. Top/Round Hats (After 1770s) vii. Turbanlike caps f. Footwear i. Artificial calves, pads attached to leg (1770s) ii. Square shaped and high heeled shoes (1720s) 1. Later forms rounder and low heels iii. B4 1750 and after 1770, red heels were hot iv. Slippers/dress shoes low heels and flat soles v. Spatter dashes/Spats vi. Jackboots sturdy and made for riding g. Accessories and Jewelry i. Walking sticks and snuff boxes 1. Tobacco inhaled ii. Rings, brooches, shoe buckles iii. Powder, Perfume, Clean shaven VIII. Costume for Women: 18  Century i. 1720­1780, hoops or paniers ii. 1770­1780, pads and bustles replaced iii. French still wore hoops after Revolution for ceremonies iv. Preserved in formal court for English b. Undergarments i. Cambric, dimity, flannel, or calico fabrics for straight undergarments ii. Corsets/Stays 1. Laced in back, sometimes both sides 2. Side lacing for pregnant and stout women 3. Constructed to allow a stomacher iii. Jumps iv. 1740s reached max width c. Outer Garments: 1715­1730 i. Sacque/Robe battante/Robe volante/ innocente  ii. Louis XIV – Louis XV, court styles relaxed iii. Pet en L’air and Mantua­Style gown 1. More pop in England than France d. Hair and Headdress i. Buns and face framing ringlets replaced over the top hairdos  ii. Pinners iii. Mob caps IX. 1730­1760 a. Garments i. Robe a la Francais and a l’Anglaise 1. Watteau Back ii. Stomachers and Petticoats showed iii. Engageants iv. Casaquin b. Hair and Headress i. Smooth combed bun ii. Tete de mouton iii. Bergere/Shepherdess hats iv. Tricornes/Jockey hats X. 1760­1790 a. Robe a la Francaise i. After 1770, pads were worn for hips ii. Drapery style came in  iii. 1780, no longer fashionable b. Robe a l’Anglaise i. Continued in 1780 ii. Fullness moved to back from sides c. 1770­1780, shorter dress lengths i. Polonaise ii. Round gowns iii. Redingote dresses  iv. Chemise a la reine v. Caracao d. Hair and Headdress i. Extreme Sizes ii. Decorated with beads, feathers, etc iii. 1780s, less height but more fullness 1. Hedgehog fashion iv. Calashes/Caleches XI. Other costume components: 18  Century a. Outdoor Garments i. Cloaks cut full, varying lengths ii. Overcoats came when hoops left in last 2 decades iii. Tippets­narrow fur or feather pieces b. Footwear i. Stockings held by garters ii. Latches, mules, pattens c. Accessories i. Bags attached by ribbon to dress ii. Fans, parasols, black masks d. Jewelry i. Necklaces matching earing ii. Gold neck watches iii. Jeweled hair pins iv. Pearl, pendants, cross necklaces  e. Cosmetics i. Red lips, cheeks, and fingernails ii. Eyebrows groomed iii. Patches and plumpers iv. Perfume and wash balls XII. Active Sport a. Women inspired by men for riding clothes b. Nude baths in seas, some resort special costume i. Good for health c. Tennis, cricket, and golf played by men i. Skating too XIII. Costume for Children 18  Century i. Babies in swaddling clothes ii. Skirts 6­7years iii. After 6­7 years, adult style iv. Ribbons of childhood on young men and teen girls v. Boarding schools were common, as well as runaway children b. Second Half i. Jean­Jacques Roussea credit with creating freedom for children’s  clothes  ii. Reynolds paintings could have popularized simple kids clothes iii. Muslin used for clothing c. Guidelines i. Infants­Wrappers for movements and air ii. Older Children­ No tightness, belt, restricting limb movement and  growth iii. Keep children in frocks iv. Bright colors v. Plain and comfortable d. Swaddling given up e. Boys Fashion i. Skeleton Suit ii. Boys Start to wear trouser f. Simple straight outfits for girls i. Cloaks for outdoors ii. Mob caps indoors g. Age 11­12 adult fashion. 


Buy Material

Are you sure you want to buy this material for

25 Karma

Buy Material

BOOM! Enjoy Your Free Notes!

We've added these Notes to your profile, click here to view them now.


You're already Subscribed!

Looks like you've already subscribed to StudySoup, you won't need to purchase another subscription to get this material. To access this material simply click 'View Full Document'

Why people love StudySoup

Steve Martinelli UC Los Angeles

"There's no way I would have passed my Organic Chemistry class this semester without the notes and study guides I got from StudySoup."

Anthony Lee UC Santa Barbara

"I bought an awesome study guide, which helped me get an A in my Math 34B class this quarter!"

Bentley McCaw University of Florida

"I was shooting for a perfect 4.0 GPA this semester. Having StudySoup as a study aid was critical to helping me achieve my goal...and I nailed it!"

Parker Thompson 500 Startups

"It's a great way for students to improve their educational experience and it seemed like a product that everybody wants, so all the people participating are winning."

Become an Elite Notetaker and start selling your notes online!

Refund Policy


All subscriptions to StudySoup are paid in full at the time of subscribing. To change your credit card information or to cancel your subscription, go to "Edit Settings". All credit card information will be available there. If you should decide to cancel your subscription, it will continue to be valid until the next payment period, as all payments for the current period were made in advance. For special circumstances, please email


StudySoup has more than 1 million course-specific study resources to help students study smarter. If you’re having trouble finding what you’re looking for, our customer support team can help you find what you need! Feel free to contact them here:

Recurring Subscriptions: If you have canceled your recurring subscription on the day of renewal and have not downloaded any documents, you may request a refund by submitting an email to

Satisfaction Guarantee: If you’re not satisfied with your subscription, you can contact us for further help. Contact must be made within 3 business days of your subscription purchase and your refund request will be subject for review.

Please Note: Refunds can never be provided more than 30 days after the initial purchase date regardless of your activity on the site.