Oceanography week 5
Oceanography week 5 GEOG 2107
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This 1 page Class Notes was uploaded by Ivana Szwejkowski on Wednesday September 28, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to GEOG 2107 at George Washington University taught by Dr. Joseph Kravitz in Fall 2016. Since its upload, it has received 5 views. For similar materials see Oceanography in Geography at George Washington University.
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Date Created: 09/28/16
Oceanography week 5 Progressive waves can be thought of as the “Basic Wave” modifications of these waves create other types of waves (to be discussed later) the anatomy of the progressive wave breaks down into its separate components, providing insight into its structure and the nature of its movement. A floating seagull demonstrates that waves travel but the water itself does not. In this sequence, a wave moves from left to right as the gull (and the water in which it is resting) revolves in a circle, moving slightly to the left up the front of an approaching wave, then rising to the crest, and finally sliding to the right down the back of the wave. There are two aspects to consider; first, the progress of the wave (progressive wave): A wave that moves or progresses in a certain direction away from the disturbance (creating them): and secondly, the movement of the water particles themselves. Superficial observation of the ripples on a floating bird suggest that the water particles move “up” and “down” but closer observation will reveal that, provided the water is very much deeper than the ripple height, the bird is describing a nearly circular path in a vertical plane, parallel with the direction of wave movement. In a more general sense, the particles are displaced from an equilibrium position, and then returned to that position. Thus, the particles experience a displacing force and restoring force. The nature of these forces is often used in the description of various types of waves.
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