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Chapter 7: Findings and Trims

by: Emylee Smith

Chapter 7: Findings and Trims RFPD 3830

Emylee Smith
GPA 3.4

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Chapter 7 notes
Product Deviation, Evaluation, and Distribution
Lisa Williams
Class Notes
Findings, Trims
25 ?




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Popular in Retail Merchandising and Fashion Product Development

This 11 page Class Notes was uploaded by Emylee Smith on Thursday October 6, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to RFPD 3830 at Ohio University taught by Lisa Williams in Fall 2016. Since its upload, it has received 4 views. For similar materials see Product Deviation, Evaluation, and Distribution in Retail Merchandising and Fashion Product Development at Ohio University.

Similar to RFPD 3830 at Ohio

Popular in Retail Merchandising and Fashion Product Development


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Date Created: 10/06/16
Chapter 7: Findings and Trims Note Outline Findings Includes:  Support materials  Closures  Thread  Elastics  Labels Support Materials Support materials are usually not visible in the garment. Using support materials is considered a sign of quality, but consumers don’t usually base their purchase decisions on these components. Must be compatible with the shell fabric Include:  Interlinings/interfacings  Linings  Support Devices Interlinings/Interfacing An extra layer of supporting fabric used in almost all structured garments. Adds body, shape and reinforcement, without it garments become shapeless during wear. Available in a variety of weights, constructions and fiber contents. Similar or lighter weights to the shell fabric are used. Can add warmth - Thinsulate, Fleece, down or lamb’s wool Common areas:  Collars  Cuffs  Buttonhole areas  Pocket openings  Waistbands Page | 1 Types of Interlinings/Interfacings Woven - stronger and more expensive Knit - allows for stretch, costs less Weft Insertion – combinations of positive features for knits and wovens Nonwoven fiber web – most common, weak and will pill Attaching Interlining/Interfacing Fusible  Most common  Strike through - adhesives showing on the outer surface during pressing Sew-In  Must be stitched in  More expensive  Needs care in application  Used more in tailored garments Lining Finishes the interior with lightweight fabric sewn into the garment. Adds to the quality of the garment Benefits:  Comfortable to the touch  Ease of putting on the garment  Support and shape retention  Opacity for sheer fabrics  Additional warmth May be complete of partial Page | 2 Partial linings are used for summer suits and sports jackets to make them cooler Also added to skirts for shape retention Pants may also be fully or partially lined for opacity and shape retention Linings are usually constructed separately and then sewn into the garment. May be dyed to match or used as an accent color. Underlining Variation of lining – the outer shell fabric and lining are layered together before the garment is constructed Fabric used is not slippery like lining fabrics Uses:  stabilization of shell fabric  Make the shell fabric opaque  Hide seam allowances in sheer or lace garments Lining Fabrics Fiber content and weave structure of lining will influence the cost of the garment  Nylon and polyester are durable and lightweight but feel clammy and allow static buildup  Acetate is used for lining coats and jackets. It is inexpensive but does not wear well.  Silk is used in status garments The weave structure has an impact on the durability Page | 3  Twill weaves wear best and maintain shape  Satin linings are easy to slip on and off over other clothing but snag easily and don’t wear well over time. Support Devices Shoulder Pads  Used in tailored garments  Made of molded foam (less expensive) or layers of cotton, wool or polyester Sleeve Headers  Narrow strips sewn into the sleeve cap that creates a soft roll in the cap of a tailored sleeve  Prevents the armscye seam from collapsing and wrinkling. Collar Stay  Thin strips of plastic inserted into the point of a collar  Prevents collar from curling up and wrinkling  Can be permanently sewn in or removable Boning  Used in the bodice of a garment  Used in bras, corsets, and strapless dresses to maintain the shape of the garment during wear.  Can be steel, plastic, or polyester rigilene Seam Tapes  Narrow ribbon-line woven fabrics  Used to stabilize shoulder seams or knit tops or establish a roll line on a lapel on the interior of a jacket. Bra Cups Page | 4  Used in strapless or backless garments and swimsuits  Provide shape and support to the bustline  Made of fiberfill or foam  Must withstand care procedures without lumping Closures Closures are subjected to more horizontal stress during wear than vertical stress. These stresses affect how they are selected and where they are placed on the garment. Closures are often purchased by the gross because of the huge quantities used in most orders. Zippers Somewhat stiff and best used in flat areas of a garment, rather than curved seams, over olds, or over gathers. Used in place of buttons on fitted garments Must be appropriate for the garment style, fabric weight and care May need to be dyed to match shell fabric Can have a chain or teeth made of metal, plastic or nylon Methods of Zipper Application Methods of insertion  Centered  Lapped  Invisible  Fly Front Page | 5  Exposed Buttons Are both functional and decorative because most of them are visible on a garment To be functional, a buttonhole is needed Most common buttons are molded plastic (nylon) or stamped out of a sheet of plastic (polyester) Other materials are metal, wood, animal horn, rubber and shell Can also be covered in the same fabric as the shell fabric Attached with:  Holes (eye) these are less formal and lie flatter on the garment  Loops (shanks) These have a loop extension on the back which leaves the surface of the button free to be more decorative. Sized in lignes which equals 1/40 of an inch or 40 lignes/inch Variations Loops - tubes of fabric or thread Frogs - decorative coiled cording Toggles - a pair of cord loops secured by a rod that replaces the button Buttonholes Need to be secure and evenly placed Page | 6 Must be long enough for the button to slip through and remain in place but not too long that the button can easily come unbuttoned during wear. General rule – the length of the buttonhole is equal to the width of the button plus the button’s diameter Should be reinforced with interfacing to make them more durable and maintain the shape of the area of the garment. Horizontal buttons/buttonholes stay buttoned better during wear than vertical buttons/buttonholes Overlaps and underlaps - buttons and buttonholes placed on extensions Stitched - straight or keyhole Bound with fabric strips Slot - openings in seam Hooks and Eyes Hold up well under strain so they are used where other closures might give way during wear. Eye should be the same material as the hook – usually metal On higher priced garments, eye may be made by hand of thread Hook and Loop Fastener Brand name - velcro Two separate tapes that stick when pressed together Good for children’s wear and finger dexterity problems where a person cannot use traditional buttons, snaps or hook and eye Page | 7 Snaps Sew on - light to medium use in areas that do not undergo much stress. Mechanically attached – heavier use areas that need to withstand repeated snapping and unsnapping Snap tape - fabric with mechanically attached snaps in a series. Often used in infant and toddler pants Belts Hold garments together or in place at the waist and provide a decorative finish Can be tied, buckled or joined with another closure Could be the same fabric as the garment or contrasting fabric, leather, metal or vinyl Some manufacturer’s buy premade belts instead of developing their own. These belts are lower quality than those made for a specific style. Styles:  Straight  Tie  String  Contoured Thread Must be compatible with the shell fabric Page | 8 Has a strong impact on the quality of the finished product and the durability of the product during wear. Selected for color, size, strength, elasticity, fiber type, colorfastness and ability to form stitches during construction Thread color-matched to the shell fabric is a sign of a quality garment. Put-up - the type of spool (small quantities) or cone (larger quantities) that the thread is on. Cones are used in a factory setting, while spools are used in haute couture or making sample garments. The size is cited by the tex system used for yarns. The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the thread Types of Thread Spun - made of cotton or synthetic staple fibers. Strong and elastic Corespun - spun nylon or polyester core wrapped with cotton or another staple fiber. One of the most expensive threads. Monofilament - a single strand of fiber that is very strong, inexpensive and transparent in color. Tends to be stiff and slippery and the ends can be scratchy and annoying when worn. Multifilament - several filaments twisted together and possibly texturized. Has greater elasticity and is useful for sewing knits. Elastics A textile with the ability to stretch repeatedly and return to original size Used to:  Shape garments Page | 9  Hold them close to the body The type of elastic used depends on the styling requirements of the garment, the amount of stretch needed, the way it will be used, the compatibility with the shell fabric, the flexibility and holding power, and the hand Made of either rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester or cotton to make it more comfortable and aesthetically pleasing. Chlorine bleach can degrade rubber elastic Labels Printed or woven attachments to garments to provide written information for the consumer Label Materials Product developer must consider the compatibility of the label fabric with the shell fabric. The cost of the label must fit within the budget Printed labels are the least expensive If the label irritates the customer, they will remove it and lose the needed information. Nonwoven or paper labels - printed and used on casual and lower priced clothing Woven - most expensive and require the longest lead time. Most durable and create a high-quality impression Page | 10 Brand Labels Large, colorful and in a prominent location Help the customer quickly identify the product Temporary labels such as hangtags may communicate information such as style number, size, season, color and price. These are removed prior to use. Label Styles Flat - most common, strips of narrow fabric Folded-Loop - longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside and sewn into the neckline seam Folded - a flat piece of fabric folded in half and stitched into the seam or to the edge of another label. Heat transfer - printing information directly onto the shell fabric Trim Types Linear - decorative edgings and seams  Lines on the surface or edges such as topstitching, edge-stitching, welt seams, hemstitching, piping, cording  Least expensive type of trim Narrow Fabric - ribbons, laces, passementerie (braids and cords) Surface Embellishment - embroidery, applique, screen printing Decorative Edgings - ruffles, flounces, smocking Page | 11


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