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Waves and Surfing (Lecture 13)

by: Megan Dengler

Waves and Surfing (Lecture 13) 212

Marketplace > University of Arizona > Geoscience > 212 > Waves and Surfing Lecture 13
Megan Dengler
GPA 4.0

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This is the lecture from October 6, 2016. We covered surfing conditions, how the waves are formed, and how to calculate the time it takes for waves to be created and reach a certain location that w...
Dr. Richardson
Class Notes
wind, speed, surfing, waves, rate, fetch, duration, time, set, Rotation, particle
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This 8 page Class Notes was uploaded by Megan Dengler on Tuesday October 11, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to 212 at University of Arizona taught by Dr. Richardson in Fall. Since its upload, it has received 2 views. For similar materials see Geosciences in Geoscience at University of Arizona.


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Date Created: 10/11/16
October 6, 2016 Lecture 13: Waves and Surfing - Things to Remember o Biggest winds form the biggest waves: in the WESTERLIES o Things that determine wave size:  Wind speed  Fetch  Duration o Fully developed Sea: The maximum ocean waves that can be produced by a given wind blowing over sufficient fetch for sufficient duration o Waves above/below the curve: surfing vs sailing  Does it have the waves it deserves? o Sinking Air: high pressure, dry o Rising Air: low pressure, wet o o o o o o o o Below the curve  Not enough duration and fetch  Good for sailing o Above the curve  Waves developed by other winds  Good for surfing - Storm Waves to LA (time to draw) o Best time to go to LA for surfing  Distance = 1300 miles  Wind = 46 mph  Wave speed = 26 mph  Wave set speed = 13 mph  Rate = Distance/Time Time = 1300 miles/13 mph = 100 hours = 4 days o * TRICK: Wave speed of an individual wave is twice as fast as the set of waves that eventually these waves form into  Because there are lower waves in front of the big fast waves just formed by the bigger, faster winds. They run over the smaller, littler waves which slow them down.  Big, fast wave will turn into a set of waves that will go ½ the speed of the wave speed.   - Wind Waves in deep water o How Do Waves Work  Energy moves through the water  The particle doesn’t move, the water doesn’t move. Just the energy moves. It rotates o - In the Surf Break (Shallow water) o As waves approach the shore  They slow down  The wavelength decreases  The height increases as they stand up on the bottom  Eventually they break o When it gets shallower than half of the wavelength, it creates friction, slowing the bottom. The wave “trips” over itself and falls/breaks o - How surfing Works o o Surfing 101  Water is moving upward as wave comes in  Energy of wave (the wave crest) is moving forward  The water surface is pushing you outward and upward  Gravity wants to pull you straight down  Net Result: You slide down the face of the wave - Things to Remember o Fully –Developed Sea Curve o Waves above/below the curve  Above = waves too big for wind, generated somewhere else under faster winds  Below = Waves too small for wind, not enough fetch or duration o Set speed is half of the individual wave speed o Pattern of wave motion in the deep ocean o Pattern of wave motion near the shore o Movement of wave vs movement of water o Parts of a wave


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