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Lecture 14: Coastal Currents and Processes

by: Megan Dengler

Lecture 14: Coastal Currents and Processes 212

Marketplace > University of Arizona > Geoscience > 212 > Lecture 14 Coastal Currents and Processes
Megan Dengler
GPA 4.0

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In this lecture of week 8, we talked about longshore transport, the last step of the sediment cycle - erosion along the coast, how sand is moved down the beach, and coves/spits.
Dr. Richardson
Class Notes
Cove, Spits, Longshore, current, transport, sediment, cycle, Sand, waves, westerlies
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This 2 page Class Notes was uploaded by Megan Dengler on Tuesday October 11, 2016. The Class Notes belongs to 212 at University of Arizona taught by Dr. Richardson in Fall. Since its upload, it has received 3 views. For similar materials see Geosciences in Geoscience at University of Arizona.


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Date Created: 10/11/16
October 11, 2016 Lecture 14: Coastal Currents and Processes - Quiz Review o Westerlies (blow west to east) 30-60 o Deserts are on the west sides of continents due to  Cold ocean currents nearby  EXAM: name and place the 10 gyres  Know Gulf Stream o Ocean Gyres are driven by winds o Which ocean grows the biggest waves? Southern ocean  Infinite fetch - Longshore Current (drawing from lecture) o Angled in, straight back down (you and beach are moved down the shore) o Waves come in at an angle. They slow down when it hits the wave break, so the waves bend o Creates a Transport: Longshore Transport or Longshore Current: There is a net transport of Sand/Water to the right – in the same direction as the waves come in  Waves literally move the beach o Submarine canyons stop the sand in the rivers of longshore transport, dropping it down to the bottom  West Coast of US  subduction zone (trenches, ring of fire) - Last step in the Sediment Cycle: Longshore transport to canyons - Direction of Longshore Transport o Equatorward  Exception: Gulf of Mexico o US: South  Because the westerlies make waves above the continent, which come down at an angle and hit the coasts - Longshore Transport along a curved coastline o Coves last longer  Collects/steals sand from the spits  You should build a beach house on spit – the sand will erode o Eventually the coast will straighten out (Shoreline Straightening)  The coves will fill in, the spits will erode back  No sediment on the spits  Sand and beach in the coves o Direction  Both ways from the point of the spit to either side into the coves - If we dam the rivers, we end up with no beach o We have to manually transport in beach sand o LA river – no sediment


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