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by: Aurore MacGyver Sr.


Aurore MacGyver Sr.
GPA 3.66


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Class Notes
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Popular in Oceanography

This 3 page Class Notes was uploaded by Aurore MacGyver Sr. on Wednesday September 9, 2015. The Class Notes belongs to OCEAN 549 at University of Washington taught by Staff in Fall. Since its upload, it has received 10 views. For similar materials see /class/192146/ocean-549-university-of-washington in Oceanography at University of Washington.


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Date Created: 09/09/15
In the longshore lecture notes we begin with Sxy Ensinoccosoc 1 We can rewrite l as Sxy ECg cosaXsina C 2 Where the rst term on the RHS is the wave energy ux per unit shoreline length and the second term is a constant according to Snell s Law of refraction We want to know how the rst term varies as we approach the shoreline as it produces the thrust of the longshore current To do this we take the derivative of 2 any sina 6ECg cosa 6x C 6x 3 Remember sinocC is a constant From linear wave theory we know ELHZ lt4 8 This was incorrect in the original version of the notes and denoted there as Equation 6 We now assume shallow water waves ie Cg lgh39 n 1 Knowing that thewave height H is constrained by the local water depth h39 77 h by the formulation 7 042 5 h at breaking The wave eld ultimately becomes saturated such that 5 is true for all of the waves Substituting 5 into 4 and 4 into 3 we nd as 32 2 a 1 xy pg 7 smacosa 2 h 6 6x 8C ax 7 5 Remember 6 2 7 6x 18372 ax So the derivative in 6 becomes awhgtwisltahgtw althgtzamwr lm Simplifying further altahgtrl2ltarl l zzlg Substituting g 1 1 372 8 into the above and knowing C g h wef1nd 35 572 dh xy h s1nacosa 8a ax 16 gpgltn dx or 85W 572 Ht 8 8b 2 an smacosa 6x 16 gpg The result in Equation 8 makes the assumption of linear wave theory in a region dominated by breaking This is a poor assumption However the result is useful in determining the functional relationship between the longshore current and the parameters that regulate it


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