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## ELEM OCEANOGRAPHY

by: Sabina Okuneva

57

0

3

# ELEM OCEANOGRAPHY GEOL 3030

Sabina Okuneva
UGA
GPA 3.86

Railsback

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COURSE
PROF.
Railsback
TYPE
Class Notes
PAGES
3
WORDS
KARMA
25 ?

## Popular in Geology

This 3 page Class Notes was uploaded by Sabina Okuneva on Saturday September 12, 2015. The Class Notes belongs to GEOL 3030 at University of Georgia taught by Railsback in Fall. Since its upload, it has received 57 views. For similar materials see /class/202256/geol-3030-university-of-georgia in Geology at University of Georgia.

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Date Created: 09/12/15
Ocean Test 2STUDY HARD DRAW Graphs Lecture 1 22111 0 ABasics o Waves transmission of energy along airsea surface 0 Direction of water motion circular 0 Defining points I Crest high point of wave I Trough low point of wave I Node point of change of complexity 0 Point midway from crest to trough 0 Parameters I WavelengthL distance between twolike points I PointTtime required for passage of 1 wave I Celerity or speedS LT S usually stands for Salinity Height H difference in elevation of crest and trough Steepness HL The angle 0 Maximum is 17 if it is greater than the wave breaks I Energy proportional to Height I Maximum depth of motion L2 o B Classification of waves1 o By depth of water through which they travel I 1 Deepwater waves 0 DgtL2 o Waves moving through water that does not drag on sea floor 0 Speed proportional to length Longer waves faster 0 Sms sqrtgl2pi g98msquot2 o 125 sqrtL gt calculate speed ofdeep water waves I 2 Shallow water waves o DltL20 0 Thus waves drags on seafloor 0 Speed proportional to depth 0 Sms sqrtg D g 98ms I 3 Transitional Waves o L20 lt D lt LZ 0 These do something in between don t worry about this 0 C Classification of Waves 2 o By the force that destroy them I 1 Capillary waves 0 Small lt174 cm waves 0 Surface tension 0 With round crest and sharp troughs Ripples 0 Look at graph I 2 Gravity waves 0 Longer wavelengths o Rounded to pointed crest rounded troughs o D Classification of waves3 o By the force that generates them I 1 WindGenerated waves most waves I 2 Earthquakes etc generated Tsunami s I 3 Generated by the sun amp moon tides I Most common Windgenerated gravity waves 0 E Generation of waves by winds 0 Wind transfer energy to sea surface I Increase in H amp L I Maximum of HL 17 0 Sea Area of generation I That s where they are built 0 Ex High Seas Rough Seas o Swell Waves moving away from storms I Energy transfer to waves depends on o 1 Wind Speed 0 2 Duration of wind time o 3 Fetch gt distance over which wind blows over water 0 4 Roughness of Sea 0 Fully developed sea Maximum size is reached for a given wind speedamp fetch Look at notes graph 0 Southern Ocean has the fasted winds and FEI39CH Test question 0 Greatest wave height occurs in the southern ocean Lecture 2 on 22311 0 F Things that happen to waves 0 1 Dispersion Sorting by wavelength Longer faster 0 2 Interferences I A Constructive interference the combination of waves makesthe bigger wave It has to have Same Wavelengths I B Destructive Interference Canceling of two wavelengths I C Mixed Interference Most likely to happen to happen from all of these 0 Much more irregular About every 7 waves are huge 0 Look at Pg 278 A mixed interference pattern Just the right combination can result in a Rogue wave o 3 Transition to shallow water waves Development of waves I 1st Case formation of wave on the curved shelf 0 There is decrease of speed 0 Decrease of wavelength 0 Increase of height as waves llstack upquot 0 Wave height increase to 17 of length and wave breaks I 2nd Case formation of waves on the passive cont shelf 0 The quotbreakingquot of the waves happens far out in the ocean Not on the beach Ex Savannah Coast or any Atlantic coast Passive Shelf 0 Once energy is lost to the seafloor it can t be regained wave will not speed back up even in the deeper water unless wind adds energy I 3 1 Case Formation of waves on Active cont Shelf o The deep water waves collide with the cont break which is much closer to land so it creates much bigger waves 0 4 Wave Refraction I Ex Pencil in the water beaker I Bending of wave fronts over shallow or deeper waters I Depth controls speed I Look at graph 0 On a coast if there is a HEADLAND then the waves will llREFRACTquot towards the headland causing the headland to erode faster and break down The energy vectors focus of the tip of the headland I Energy focused on the headlands Look at fig 114 I think in the book 0 5 Wave Diffraction I Bending of waves around an ob39ect I Example is the barrier that the army core of engineers built 0 6 Wave Reflection I Waves llbounces off object I Example Underwater Seawall I Look at notes for graphs 0 G Classification of waves4 0 Progressive waves moving nodes 0 Standing waves stationary nodes I Look at graphs in the notes I Nodes don t move I Seiche standing waves I An example of seiche is in the Baltic Sea amp Huron bay in the USA I Baltic Sea Sieche look at the Graph

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