Waves. If the peak height to wavelength ratio is greater than 1:7, a wave becomes

Chapter 7, Problem 7.8.80

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Waves. If the peak height to wavelength ratio is greater than 1:7, a wave becomes unstable and it breaks forward. (See the figure below.) What is the maximum height a wave with wavelength 637 feet can have before it breaks forward? Limit ofsteepness7 1

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